![]() ![]() Incorporating pinning into the build for offset parts also results in a stronger final product than glue. Gap filling does not require supplementary glue, neither does working putty around a large surface or support pieces - for example a textured scenic base. ![]() Otherwise give it a wiggle after it's cured, and glue if necessary. Sculpt it right on, only if the attachment point is small then go for the glue. I don't usually use glue to stick things to a model unless it needs it. Milliput doesn't want to be made into very thin sheets or ropes, and takes a softer touch when sculpting because it doesn't have much stiffness when uncured. Green stuff sticks better, especially fresh, but is more rubbery and harder to smooth into tiny cracks or seams. For very thin parts or parts that get a lot of stress (weapons, horse tails, etc), I use GS with a metal armature for strength. A hybrid favouring milliput is ideal for casting replacement parts, as the slight flexibility makes it close to HIPS plastic in feel and retaining good detail while avoiding too much fragility/brittleness. Green stuff is best where the part might be under a lot of flex and needs to not break, like pointy horns or tentacles. Milliput sculpts hard edges better, and smooths more easily. I use all three regularly green stuff, milliput, and hybrid mix of the two. Harbor Freight is a better deal, if you can get free shipping. I've gotten away with multiple applications of thinned putty on metal, but am iffy about it.Įngraving pens are useful for getting rid of mold lines. No kneading, so good for boardgame plastics. Sanding better makes it better for gap filling (although for small gaps I prefer 'Tamiya sprue goo'). The blanks used are cherry and sycamore and ar. Kirotheavenger wrote: Milliput cures harder and sands better. Turning a sycamore bowl with Milliput epoxy putty inlay - part 1This is my first woodturning video on YouTube.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |